The Saturday Journal: Deviled Eggs
- tathelmillerwriter
- Sep 27
- 4 min read
Another one!!?? Tossing the egg on the kitchen countertop. Maybe this is how deviled eggs got their name. Maybe the "devil" part comes from trying to peel the hateful things. Because when the shell just won't let go--when chunks of white come off--when they won't peel well--swear words can almost roll off the tongue--I said, almost. But when the thinly layered shell releases and the smooth of the white shines--that's when they are a work of art.
Deviled Eggs.
I'm not really sure how deviled eggs got their name considering they are a staple at every picnic, homecoming, or family reunion--when some people, the only reason they are showing up for these meals is for the deviled eggs, and maybe the ham, and catch up on the gossip. Who in the world would have given the name "devil" to this delectable appetizer.
I was talking to my son about this a few days ago. Exactly who thought of boiling an egg--taking out the yoke--mixing a few things with it and then putting it back together. My son gifted me a book with recipes on deviled eggs which sparked this conversation. A whole book dedicated to recipes on deviled eggs--can you imagine?
The book is titled none other than "Deviled Eggs, 50 Recipes from Simple to Sassy" written by Debbie Moose, an author right here in my home state of North Carolina.
50 recipes!!
This book cover is a vibrant yellow--the color of an egg yolk, of course. And there are recipes ranging from Pimento Cheese Deviled Eggs, Green Eggs and Ham, Double Devils, Avocado Angel Eggs, Devil's Food Eggs, made with cocoa powder and grated chocolate. Another recipe where the deviled eggs are garnished with caviar, to a special recipe for Duke University fans--Blue Devils, made with blue cheese and bacon. Along with many other recipes.
Now my son didn't gift me this book for me to try new ways to make deviled eggs--my family is very particular about how I make the "family" recipe. I tried to alter the ingredients one time--added a little sweet pickle relish, and I was told right quick--nope, never again.
My curiosity though got the better of me about the history of deviled eggs and I did a little research and found a great article written by author, Heather McCollum, History of the Deviled Egg. Ironically, the deviled egg has been around since Ancient Rome and then began showing up in cookbooks and on family tables in the United States in mid-19th century. Ms. McCollum also states in her article, "1786, The word “devil” as a culinary word appeared in Great Britain in writing for the first time, referencing heavily spiced, hot, fried and/or broiled dishes."
And when exactly did mayonnaise start showing up in the making of deviled eggs? Was it from the very beginning?
Ms. McCollum shared, "1896 Fannie Farmer’s “Boston Cooking-School Cookbook” suggested using mayonnaise in the filling of their deviled egg recipe to serve as a glue, and they were one of the first to do so."
Glue??!!
You'll have to read the rest of her article--it's really interesting. I'll share the link below along with the link to the book.
My Grandma Lackey had this teal blue "hard plastic" egg plate and the plate only came out on special occasions--church homecomings and on special Sundays when the preacher and his wife and family came to her and my Grandpa's home for "Sunday after meeting" lunches. The plate held twelve deviled eggs and room in the middle for just a few more. I can't ever recall any of her deviled eggs being anything less than perfect--perfectly peeled--smooth--and each egg adorned with a sprinkle of paprika--never any paprika on the plate. Nor do I remember ever having more than one at each meal--only one.
Now there's arguments over how to make the "best" deviled eggs--do you add pickles, pickle relish, mustard--no mustard--vinegar--no vinegar. I can only tell you how I make mine, close to how my Grandmother made hers--a very simple recipe--never any measuring--taste test only. Mayonnaise--and always, Duke's mayonnaise. A dash of apple cider vinegar, salt and pepper, and a splash of paprika for color. And sometimes--if I get a little heavy on the vinegar, I add a tiny bit of the juice from the sweet pickle relish jar--careful not to get evidence of any bits of the relish into the creamy filling.
But, please don't tell my family....
Links to the book, Deviled Eggs, 50 Recipes from Simple to Sassy.
Link to the article: History of the Deviled Eggs
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